Pool Maintenance 101: A South Florida Homeowner's Guide
The weekly and monthly pool care routine for South Florida, with chemistry targets, filter basics, seasonal tips and signs it is time to call a professional.

Why South Florida pools need steady attention
Our pools run all year. Strong sun, warm water, frequent rain and humidity help algae grow and can knock your chemistry out of balance fast. A simple routine keeps that manageable. The target numbers below are common guidelines. Check your own equipment manual and ask your pool professional what suits your pool.
Weekly tasks
Do these at least weekly, and more often in the hottest months (June through September).
Skim and brush
Skim leaves, insects and debris. Even with a screen enclosure, pollen and fine debris get in. Brush walls, steps, ledges and sun shelves to keep algae from settling. Pay extra attention to corners and spots behind ladders where circulation is weak.
Test your water
Use a quality test kit or strips. Common target ranges include:
- Free chlorine: Typically 1 to 3 ppm. This is your main sanitizer.
- pH: Typically 7.4 to 7.6.
- Total alkalinity: Typically 80 to 120 ppm. It buffers pH swings.
- Cyanuric acid (stabilizer): Typically 30 to 50 ppm. It protects chlorine from UV.
- Calcium hardness: Typically 200 to 400 ppm. Too low can etch plaster. Too high can cause scale.
Empty the baskets
Empty the skimmer basket and the pump strainer basket. A clogged basket reduces flow and strains the pump. Check them after heavy storms.
Check the water level
Evaporation and rain change the level quickly. Keep it near the middle of the skimmer opening. If the level drops faster than evaporation explains, see our note on leaks below.
Monthly tasks
Clean the filter
- Cartridge filters: Rinse the cartridges with a hose every few weeks and deep clean a few times a year. Replace when worn.
- DE filters: Backwash when pressure rises about 8 to 10 psi above the clean starting pressure, then recharge with fresh DE. Deep clean the grids periodically.
- Sand filters: Backwash when pressure rises about 8 to 10 psi above baseline. The sand needs replacing every several years.
Inspect the equipment pad
- Look for leaks around the pump, filter and plumbing connections.
- Listen for grinding, screeching or loud humming from the pump motor.
- Check the salt cell, if you have one, for calcium buildup.
- Confirm timers and automation are running on schedule.
Shock when needed
Shock the pool periodically, and after heavy use, a major storm or when the water turns cloudy. A strong chlorine smell usually means chloramines, which means the pool needs more chlorine, not less.
Seasonal notes
Summer (June to September)
This is the hardest season. Heat burns off chlorine and speeds up algae. Afternoon storms dilute chemicals and wash in debris. Test more often, keep extra chlorine and acid on hand, and run the pump longer.
Winter (December to February)
Algae slows down, but the pool still needs weekly testing and enough circulation. Reduce pump run time only as much as your pool professional recommends.
DIY or professional service?
Many owners start on their own and later hire a service. DIY costs you chemicals and a few hours a week. A service costs more but saves time. If you travel or tend to fall behind, a service is often worth it, because a neglected pool can turn green in a few days in summer and recovery costs more than regular care.
When to call a professional
- Green or cloudy water that does not respond to shocking. See why pools turn green.
- Pump not priming, heater not firing or salt cell errors. Our pool equipment team handles repairs and replacements.
- Cracks in the shell or plaster, or a rough, stained surface that may need pool resurfacing.
- Unexplained water loss. A professional leak detection test can tell evaporation from a real leak.
- Loose tile or coping.
- Electrical problems with lights or automation.
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